310 m, 6b/A3
T. Gracia, E. López and A. Ballart in January 1983
A bold route, for many years considered one of the most difficult in Spain. Its very name used to send chills down the spine of some (myself included).
Today, the myth has been partly overcome and the route now sees a good number of ascents though generally avoiding the fourth pitch, which crosses the Fragata roof using pitons and wooden pegs that are now unusable.
Equipment: set of nuts, set of cams, and micro-cams. 2 or 3 pitons can be useful. If you plan to climb pitch 4, it's advisable to bring around 8 varied pitons.
LOCATION AND ACCESS
BASE
To Calpe we can arrive through the N-332 or by the AP-7, taking the exit nº 64 Altea/ Calpe to continue on the N-332 towards Calpe/Valencia. In case of heading to the south or west slope, we must follow the signs to the Port of Calpe.
Position: 38º 38’ 16” N - 0º 4’ 19” E
APPROXIMATION
To access the routes of the south face we must travel until the end of “El Paseo Príncipe de Asturias”, which runs along the sea, and then take the path that goes up to the foot of the wall. From 10 to 20 minutes depending on the route.
DESCEND
From the summit, through the north face, a beatiful and slippery path descends.