NORTH'S FACE CLIMBING ROUTES
*IT IS FORBIDDEN to climb during the nest period on the following months: april, may and june
Download the leaflet with all the climbing routes
LOCATION AND ACCESS
We can reach Calp by the N-332 or the AP-7, taking exit 64 Altea/Calp to continue on the N-332 towards Calp/Valencia. To get to the north face, we will leave the car in the car park that gives access to the interpretation center of the Parc Natural del Penyal d'Ifach.
POSITION 38°38’21”N - 0° 4’22”E
In case of going to the south or west slope, we must follow the indications to the port of Calp.
POSITION 38°38’16”N - 0° 4’19”E
From the north car park we will take the ascending track that leaves us at the interpretation center, to continue along the path that leads to the summit and that passes through the base of the wall. 15 minutes.
To access the routes on the south face and the west face, we must go all the way along Paseo Príncipe de Asturias, which runs along the sea, and then take the path that goes up at the foot of the wall. From 10 to 20 minutes depending on the route.
From the summit, through the north face, a beautiful and slippery path descends.
For the hiker, the summit of the rock is a must. We can access it through the beautiful path that runs along the north face, going through a curious tunnel of more than 50 meters. Another alternative is the ascent to the Sierra de Bernia from Pinos or from Altea la Vella, by the P.R.-C.V. 7, which offers magnificent views of the rock and the bay of Altea.
The beaches and coves of Calp will be a good choice for days that are too hot or for afternoons after a good climb.
Next to the rock, in its immediate vicinity or on the isthmus that connects it with the coast, the historic Calp has developed, with vestiges of prehistoric, Iberian, Phoenician or Roman cultures, as evidenced by the popularly called Baños de la Reina, which are, in Actually, an ancient Roman salting factory. At the foot of the rock are the ancient Roman salt pans, an important ecological area that is home to a large number of migratory birds.
In the fishing port are the facilities of the Club Náutico de Calp and the marinas of Puerto Blanco and Les Bassetes also stand out. You can practice scuba diving, windsurfing, water skiing, swimming and sailing in general. Another interesting activity is caving and sport climbing, which we can practice in the Oltà mountain range.
As for Calp cuisine, we cannot forget its various rice dishes such as arroz caldoso, arroz con bogavante or arròs de senyoret, based on grouper or sliced squid, prawns and fish stock. This name comes from the way in which the "gentlemen" eat rice: all peeled, without bones and without having to get your fingers dirty. We must highlight the fish-based dishes such as cruet de peix, which we can taste in the many restaurants near the port.
120 m, 6a+
Interesting climbing route that begins with the characteristic cave located a few meters before reaching the tunnel. The second one stands out, currently equipped with chemicals. In the rest of the route we will have to place some pieces of self-protection.
120 m, 6c+
Very technical itinerary that runs at all times by plates. The small number of repetitions it receives today, allows moss to grow on the wall, making the progression even more difficult. The route is equipped to the style of the time, with spits and nails, quite deteriorated today.
Route 03. Asignatura pendiente
120 m, 6b
Similar features to the previous one but somewhat simpler. Old equipment.
Route 04. Sinfonía de las gaviotas
160 m, 6b/A2
Itinerary for all terrain ropes, something difficult to follow at the top, where some variants appear.
180 m, 6a/A1
This beautiful route is the work of the magnificent Murcian rope that gives it its name. Its logical route connects diedros and fissures in an elegant way. They stand out for their beauty the dihedron of the second long and the vertical crack of the fifth. Recommended.
180 m, 6b
Possibly the most beautiful and repeated of the routes that cross the north face. This itinerary connects the best stretches of the routes Matas-Lozano and Diedro Botella with the last length of the Murcia Direct. For this purpose, two editions were opened with difficulty around 6b. The result was a beautiful and original itinerary. The route ascends by diedros, plates and fissures of good rock. Indispensable.
240 m, 4+
The first of the climbing routes open in the Rock of Ifach and the one that involves less difficulty. This route, very grassy at the beginning, is gaining verticality and atmosphere, offering very beautiful lengths in the final sections. Quite repeated.
240 m, 5+
Interesting route, somewhat more complicated than Via Pany but which in no way exceeds grade 5. The route in the final sections is somewhat diffuse.
240 m, 6b
Interesting route but little maintained. The third length stands out for its difficulty.
250 m, 5+/A1
It has an obvious and very attractive beginning. On the contrary, the rest of the pathway is very grassy and somewhat decomposed.
160 m, 6c+/A1
Magnificent route on rock of great quality. The most delicate steps are equipped with parabolts, but we will have to make good use of the floating material on most of the track. The descent is done in abseil by the same route. Highly recommended.
165 m, 6b+/A3
Modern route with beautiful lengths, both artificial and free climbing. Its layout runs diagonally across the west buttress of the rock. At the beginning of the second long track reserves a passage, quite exposed, which acts as a "repellent" of many cordadas. Very good route, reserved for competent riders.
Route 13. El hoy fugaz es tenue y es eterno, otro cielo no esperes ni otro infierno
220 m, 5a/A3+
Modern, spectacular and laborious route. The route sneaks through a seemingly impregnable area, overcoming 3 ceilings with nail steps, for which we must do real acrobatics on the stirrups. Reserved for lovers of artificial climbing.
220 m, 6b/A3
Modern itinerary with pitches of free climbing and "artificial without respite" according to its openers. Route with a lot of atmosphere that crosses the compact walls of the west buttress with the help of homemade rivets. It is advisable to avoid days with an easterly wind.
250 m, 6b+
Modern itinerary with free climbing lengths and "artificial without respite" according to its aperturistas. A lively route that crosses the compact walls of the western buttress with the help of homemade rivets. It is advisable to avoid days with wind of rise.